Contrarian

Chianti in the rain is better than you think

A wet forecast is not a ruined day. It might be the better one.

The instinct on a grey morning is to write the day off and drive to an outlet mall. Don't. Almost everything that makes Chianti great happens indoors or improves in the rain — the cellars are underground, the lunches are long, and the coach crowds simply don't show.

Start at Badia a Passignano if the abbey's open, then make for the vaulted cellars of Enoteca Falorni in Greve, where you can self-pour through hundreds of labels without stepping outside. Take a slow lunch at Osteria Le Panzanelle, spend an hour getting properly oriented at Casa Chianti Classico, and end in a cellar tasting where weather is irrelevant.

We built a whole route around exactly this — it's in Plan, under 'Chianti in the rain.' The hills look wonderful wet, and you'll have them to yourself.

Every place we mention is on the map, with what's open today.

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